From the Rubble to the Church – Spatial Narratives of the Palace of Fine Arts, Lisbon

11-09-2024

Dos escombros à Igreja – Narrativas Espaciais do Palácio das Belas Artes Lisboa

Por Lia Carreira, curadora e gestora do PdBA Lisboa, vencedora do Prémio Criativo APE 2024 - versão original em português abaixo

By Lia Carreira, curator and manager of the Palace of Fine Arts Lisbon, winner of the 2024 APE Creative Grant

Over the past few months, I have been delving into the various spatial modalities of what is today the Palácio Iglésias, located at Largo das Belas Artes, No. 2, in Lisbon. This palace is the focus of artistic-curatorial experimentation and collaboration for the PdBA Lisbon project, of which I am the curator and manager. Thanks to the Creative Grant from the Archives Portal Europe Foundation, I was finally able to expand my research to map out a narrative that accounts for the spatial multiplicity of this building and its previous iterations.

One of the challenges identified in an initial historical overview was the absence of a representative image of what previously existed there: the former Church of the Martyrs. Now located at 102 Rua Garrett in Chiado, this church was one of the symbolic landmarks of the 1147 conquest of Lisbon. However, its structure was almost completely destroyed by the great earthquake of 1755.

Imagem 1: Gravura [17--?] a ilustrar os momentos seguintes ao terremoto de 1755, na qual podemos avistar o Convento de São Francisco [11] (e ao lado, quem sabe, a Igreja dos Mártires a cair). Arquivo Nacional Torre do Tombo, disponível aqui. Image 1: Engraving [17--?] depicting the moments following the 1755 earthquake, in which we can see the Convent of São Francisco [11] (and next to it, possibly, the Church of the Martyrs collapsing). National Archive Torre do Tombo, available here


The Palace was built on the ruins of this church, erected in 1859 by architect Giuseppe Cinatti as the main residence of the Iglésias family. Rebuilt with a new appearance a few blocks away and buried under the ambitions of a rising modernity and aristocracy, the original traces of this historic landmark seemed to reemerge only in 1976 due to construction work on the Palace. To everyone's surprise, skeletal remains and graves belonging to the Martyrs' necropolis were unearthed. Nearly fifty years later, little is still said about this site and its importance, viewed by passersby as just another palace among many.

In order to capture its faint image, visual documentation of pre-1755 Lisbon was sought through the Archives Portal Europe platform, whose search system scans various European collections simultaneously. The result was a series of panoramas and maps in which the Church could barely be distinguished, overshadowed by its neighbor, the Convent of São Francisco da Cidade. But with a bit more persistence and attention, we finally managed to glimpse it!

Imagem 02: Documento iconográfico [c. 18--?] com vista de Lisboa antes do Terremoto de 1755. N. 107, logo abaixo do Convento de São Francisco, está o “Templo dos Mártires”. Arquivo Nacional Torre do Tombo, disponível aqui. Image 02: Iconographic document [c. 18--?] with a view of Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. No. 107, just below the Convent of São Francisco, is the "Temple of the Martyrs." National Archive Torre do Tombo, available here


This image is, therefore, the result of a comprehensive and multifaceted keyword search, considering the entire history of this Church: which was once called "hermitage," "chapel," "temple," and "basilica"; located on the former "Monte Fragoso," in the "Parish of Our Lady of the Martyrs," and on today's "Rua Vitor Cordón" (which was previously "Rua Nossa Senhora dos Mártires" and "Rua Ferragial de Cima"); next to the "Convent of São Francisco da Cidade," now the "Faculty of Fine Arts," formerly the "Academy," and once "National Library"; visible from the Tagus River, but also from the former "Largo do Pelourinho" (later "Old Pelourinho," "Largo da Câmara," and now "Praça do Município"), and from "Praça do Comércio" or "Terreiro do Paço," in the old "Ribeira area." To all these and other terms, we added their gender, accent, numerical, and linguistic variations (such as "Martyres" and "Victor Cordon"), through which the Church of the Martyrs was documented and archived—this process was greatly facilitated by the APEF search system.

This post, however, represents only a portion of the spatial narrative of this palace, which will be published soon on the PdBA online platform. We extend our invitation to follow the upcoming stages by following our Instagram profile.



Ao longo dos últimos meses, estive a aprofundar-me nas diversas modalidades espaciais do que hoje é o Palácio Iglésias, situado no Largo das Belas Artes, n.2, em Lisboa. Este palácio é foco de experimentações e colaboração artísticas-curatoriais do projeto PdBA Lisboa, do qual sou curadora e gestora. E foi com o Creative Grant da Fundação Archives Portal Europe que pude finalmente expandir minha investigação, a fim de traçar uma narrativa que dê conta da multiplicidade espacial deste edifício e de suas versões anteriores.

Dentre os impasses identificados em um apanhado histórico inicial, estava a ausência de uma imagem representativa do que ali antes constava: a antiga Igreja dos Mártires. Hoje situada na Rua Garrett n.102 no Chiado, esta constituiu-se como um dos marcos simbólicos da tomada de Lisboa de 1147. Sua estrutura, entretanto, fora destruída quase que por completo pelo grande terremoto de 1755.

O Palácio foi construído sob os escombros desta igreja, erguido em 1859 pelo arquiteto Giuseppe Cinatti como residência principal da família Iglésias. Reerguida com nova face a algumas quadras de distância e soterrada pelos anseios de uma modernidade e de uma aristocracia em ascensão, os traços originais deste marco histórico parece ressurgir apenas em 1976 em decorrência de uma obra ao Palácio em que, para a surpresa de todos, escavaram-se ossadas e sepulturas pertencentes à necrópole dos Mártires. E, passados quase cinquenta anos, pouco ainda se fala deste sítio e de sua importância, visto por quem ali passa como mais um palácio dentre outros.

A fim de contemplar esta sua imagem rarefeita, buscou-se por documentações visuais de Lisboa pré-1755 através da plataforma da Archives Portal Europe, cujo sistema de busca varre por diversos acervos europeus em simultâneo. O resultado foi uma série de panoramas e mapas em que mal podia-se distinguir a Igreja perante o destaque dado ao seu vizinho, o Convento de São Francisco da Cidade. Mas com um pouco mais de persistência e atenção, conseguimos finalmente vislumbrá-la!

Esta imagem é, portanto, resultado de uma busca por palavras-chaves abrangente e multifacetada, a considerar todo o histórico desta Igreja: que um dia foi chamada de “ermida”, “capela”, “templo” e “basílica”; situada no antigo “Monte Fragoso”, na “freguesia da Nossa Senhora dos Mártires”, e na atual “Rua Vitor Cordón” (que por sua vez fora “Rua Nossa Senhora dos Mártires” e “Rua Ferragial de Cima”); ao lado do “Convento de São Francisco da Cidade”, hoje “Faculdade das Belas Artes”, antes “Academia”, e outrora “Biblioteca Nacional”; e vista do Tejo, mas também do antigo “Largo do Pelourinho” (depois “Pelourinho o Velho”, “Largo da Câmara” e hoje “Praça do Município”), e da “Praça do Comércio” ou “Terreiro do Paço”, na antiga “zona da Ribeira”. A todas estas e outras palavras acrescenta-se ainda suas variações de género, de acentuação, numérica e idiomática (como em “Martyres” e “Victor Cordon”) por meio das quais a Igreja dos Mártires fora de alguma forma documentada e arquivada – processo este facilitado imensamente pelo sistema de busca da APEF.

Este post, no entanto, corresponde apenas a uma parcela da narrativa espacial deste palácio, a ser publicada na plataforma online do PdBA em breve. Fica aqui o nosso convite para acompanharem as próximas etapas, segundo-nos pelo nosso perfil do Instagram.


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